Watercolor brushes - who are the best?

Watercolor paint can be fun and exciting. One of the questions I often hear is, "the brushes is the best, and should I buy those with natural or synthetic filament brushes." There are many brands of brushes watercolor on the market, and the choices can seem endless. I will be summarized some of what I learned on the subject, but there are many books and articles on the topic if you want to go further in detail. A trick is to buy the best brushes, you can afford. The easiest way to become familiar with those that you select is the painting of practice with them!

Watercolour of natural hair brushes are often made by hand and the most profitable. They have ridges in the filaments (hair) which hold more than painting. This allows less than traits that tends to produce a clearer, more fresh paint. These brushes are made from the hair of the Kolinsky Sable, Camel, red sand, to name a few and can be very expensive. Others are made of a mixture of hair natural and synthetic and work very well. These brushes are strictly synthetic may function correctly, and I suggest that you buy some of each category if you can afford to do so.

As you select your brushes, it is important to purchase those manufactured specially for the watercolour. They will be rounded or flat. My suggestion is to start with a tour # 12, # 8 round, # 5 rounds and a Tower # 2. The number is small, small brush. (The range of numbers between # 1 and # 24). There are also brushes still more small ranging from 0 to 000 which I would not recommend. They are the smallest details, which you can achieve very well with a good quality brush towers, which comes at a time, size 2.

Some watercolorists do not use one of the smaller round brushes and paint well without them. I personally use a brush of # 1 and # 2 in addition to the larger mentioned, because I paint a lot of small details.

I also suggest that you buy a 1/2 inch flat, a flat of 1 inch and a two-inch plate (used for egg laying of large laundry/glazes). Smaller flat brushes are useful for the manufacture of straight lines and small washes.

There are many sets of "beginner" Watercolor Brush, and art supply stores are happy to help with your selection as well. A last word on the care of your brushes. Wash in warm soapy water, then reshape boards by hand. The improvement of the care they receive, longer they will last.

Sue Doucette, author / artist

http://www.CapeCodWatercolor.com.

I have been painting in watercolour for twenty-five years, and I would like to share with you what I learned. Many artists want to keep their secret "tricks of the trade", fearing, you become a painter better than they are. I am happy to share what I know. My hope is that you get to enjoy painting in watercolour as much as I do!

Visit my website http://www.capecodwatercolor.com/ and read my monthly "tips for artists". Please do not hesitate to contact me. Also, I am pleased of commissions and can paint your photo.


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Watercolour Painting Corrections are possible!

For many aspiring watercolorists shy away from this medium, fearing errors can be corrected. When painting with oil or acrylic, paint can be scraped from the canvas and then painted. In artistic creation with watercolor, pigment percolate in the watercolor paper, apparently stay there forever. Armed with a couple of useful tips, the fear of the Watercolour can be removed, allowing the artist to paint in a relaxed and confident manner.

The first thing to consider is which colors are colors coloring and which are not. The colours of staining include Alizarin Crimson and blue Winsor, to name a couple. These colors are not completely "lift" of the paper, while the transparent true garance pink and blue Cobalt will be. There are many other colors and their properties, to consider and I recommend to practice with your all favorite palette in which pigments will remove easily and which will not.

The second consideration when talking about changes to a watercolour, is the use of a good quality watercolor paper. This cannot be overemphasized. There are many brands and weight of paper that allows to choose, and I prefer a 140 lb, cold pressed paper. This is my personal preference and it brandishes to lift, but experimentation will guide you to your own favorite. Just use paper good markets if attempting to raise color. Some of the top layer of the paper will be amended and to lesser documents will not be to wastewater treatment. You will be pleased that you have selected the higher rank of watercolor paper!

Now that you know that you will use a high calibre and staining paints watercolor paper, you are ready to experiment with the lifting of the colors. Start your trial with the brush of the artist. Dip your brush into the drinking water and more than unloading. Then take your brush and the area to be amended with circular brush strokes, Blot and checking that you are going. If this eliminates all the pigments, switch to a soft brush - see and repeat this process with a smooth, circular motion. Continue the spot and check your work, that you pass.

Once the corrected area has dried, try to paint this spot. If the surface of the paper is not ben modified too much, it will easily accept new painting. Careful and prudent lifting will leave the most intact area. Hard cleaning can cause goes through the paper leaving a hole. To make a test. It's fun and you will build your confidence as a watercolourist.

Sue Doucette

http://www.CapeCodWatercolor.com.

I paint in watercolour for twenty-five years and have learned a lot from what I know by trial and error. Many artists does not want to share their secret "tricks of the trade" with others. I am pleased to share with you what I know. My hope is that you'll love Watercolour as me!

Visit my website @ http://www.capecodwatercolor.com/ and check my "new" section for my tips monthly for painters. Do not hesitate to contact me with your questions, you may have. I also paint ordered parts and can work from your photo.


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The painting is cracking on my painting!

"Which causes cracking in oil painting which is often in ancient paintings?" is one of the most common questions I am asked.

This phenomenon of small cracks in the oil painting is known as cracking and is usually caused by the drying time and environmental conditions which has been the subject of art.

It is not in the 20th century with our current heat and air conditioning methods that have enabled us to live in a fairly constant indoor temperature and humidity. Prior to this, households were the most common method of heating a home and an open window was the way to cool. This fluctuation in the environment puts stress on a work of art. Painting in oil and the media, either the canvas or wood, actually expands and contracts.

Another factor is that artists create generally paints oil by the superimposition of the colors. This layering process means that the paint has different drying times. Also, this is 1841 that paints were available to the artist in metal tubes. Prior to this, the artists had grind pigments and mix them oil which meant that oil to pigment ratio was not necessarily consistent color from one to the other, which also affected the drying time.

Now, think of these as similar layers to the tectonic plates of the Earth. These plates are always expanding and contracting according to stress that he meets. This movement over the centuries have caused mountains to be formed, and earthquakes to wreck havoc. This is what happens to the layers of paint, but instead of an "earthquake of painting", you see a maze of cracks in the paint. These cracks may appear on the whole painting or only in a localized area. It is just a natural process of ancient paintings.

The value of art is not affected by cracking unless it is very serious, with large cracks and loss of the paint. Restore can usually address a serious problem. Most of the time, cracking stabilizes when art is in a modern house or business.

If cracked paint field has a centre and expands out like a spider's Web, then the canvas suffered trauma such as being hit or Redlight. The canvas that many not have been perforated, but over a period of time that the stress of the evolution of the environment will expose the hidden damage. A good conservator can help to stabilize and support this area.

Enjoy your ancient painting and the history it represents!

Melanie Smith is one of the owners of Seaside Art Gallery, which has been established since 1961. She is a member accredited international society of appraisers specializing in fine arts and the art of animation.

Seaside Art Gallery specializes in original works of art. You can consult them by head bothering, NC or on their Web site at http://www.seasideart.com/.


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